Pyramid Lake offers lots to see and do

The Athabasca River viewing point in Jasper National Park.

By Michele Kadison

Staff Writer

Rockies.com

JASPER, Alberta (Rockies.com) – The Pyramid Lake area of Jasper National Park offers some amazing sights and great chances to see the wildlife of the Canadian Rockies. It’s a relatively short drive from the town of Jasper with access from Pyramid Lake Road.

Beginning in Jasper, follow Connaught Drive and turn right onto Cedar Avenue, which becomes Pyramid Lake Road shortly after passing the Recreation Centre. Climbing a bench above town, it meanders through Canadian douglas fir forest.

Douglas fir, one of the largest trees in the Canadian Rockies, contains thick cork layers which allows these giants to survive all but the largest forest fires. As a result, some large douglas fir trees can be almost a metre in diametre. Most average around 50 cm.

Typical of the true Canadian Mountain forest, the douglas fir thrives in the Chinook blasted valleys of the Athabasca River. Pyramid Bench sports more than 20 small lakes left behind by the action of Canadian glaciers. With this plethora of ponds, the area is also riddled with trails that have access to many of these tranquil locales. Watch for elk and deer, along with the occasional moose, black bear and grizzly. A gated road at the two kilometre mark blocks access to Cabin Lake, the town’s main water supply.

Although most fire roads have been made redundant with the advent of helicopters, this road still forms one of Jasper’s first lines of defense. For mountain bikers, it provides access to the Saturday Night Loop, a 28.9 kilometre (17.3 mile) loop trail which skirts the shoreline of several local lakes. Just beyond the Cabin Lake access, the road passes a cottonwood slough. The “cottonwood” trees in this case are trembling aspen and balsam poplar, part of the same family as the true cottonwoods.

See the crystal clear reflection of Pyramid Mountain in Jasper National Park.

This is one of the premier birding locations in Jasper National Park. Keep your eyes open for birds like the Barred owl, Pied-Billed Grebe and Barrow’s Goldeneye. As the sun goes down, watch for the careful movements of beaver and moose. Along the shores of Patricia Lake, Patricia Lake Bungalows provide quiet accommodation. A boat rental allows for a relaxing paddle.

Beneath these waters lie the remains of a top secret World War II project—code name Project Habbakuk. The idea, which came directly from Winston Churchill’s office, was to build an unsinkable battleship. How could this be accomplished? The answer seemed simple; it would be made completely out of ice. Where better to build a prototype than within the frozen wasteland of Canada, specifically Patricia Lake. A 1:50 scale model was built, and they managed to keep it frozen during the summer of 1943.

Unfortunately, the astronomical cost of actually deploying a full-size ship became apparent, and the venture was dropped. The refrigeration equipment was turned off, and the prototype sunk to the bottom where it still rests. Divers routinely explore the bottom to marvel at the remains of this unique structure.

The road ends at Pyramid Lake. This lake allows gasoline powered motors, and boats are available for rent at Pyramid Lake Bungalows. Cast a line for rainbow and lake trout along with rocky mountain whitefish. In fact the Alberta record-setting white sucker fish was caught in Pyramid Lake. During winter, a lighted skating rink is maintained on the lake surface. The Canadian Rockies do not get much better than they do here.

Highlights: Douglas fir forest, Pyramid Bench, aspen forest, Patricia Lake, Pyramid Lake.

Activities: Sightseeing, photography, walking, hiking.

Location: Begin from the town of Jasper.

Time: Minimum of one half-hour for driving.

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Exploring Maligne Lake in Jasper National Park

The elusive Medicine Lake of Jasper National Park.

By Michele Kadison

Staff Writer

Rockies.com

JASPER, Alberta (Rockies.com) – No trip to Jasper National Park, or the Canadian Rockies for that matter, would be complete without a side trip to Maligne Lake. Separated from the Banff/Jasper Highway by the rugged Maligne Range, this 46 kilometer (29 mile) road follows the glacial valley separating this range from the neighboring Queen Elizabeth Ranges. The main access is along Highway 16, approximately five kilometers east of Jasper.

Highlights: Jasper Park Lodge Road, Hanging Valley Viewpoint, Maligne Canyon, Medicine Lake, Rose Marie’s Rock, Maligne Lake.

Activities: Sightseeing, photography, walking, hiking, canoeing, whitewater rafting.

Location: Five kilometers east of Jasper.

Time: Minimum of two hours.

Camera-ready

As you drive this winding road, keep your eyes open for Canadian wildlife. Many a grizzly has been seen wandering its isolated hillsides and lakeshores. There are also potentials for black bear, elk, moose, mule and white-tail deer, bighorn sheep and mountain goat spotting. A camera and film are essential here, as in most parts of Canada, but please stay in your vehicle when you see animals and please keep a safe distance between your vehicle and the wildlife.

The resorts

Immediately after crossing the bridge, the road to Jasper Park Lodge branches off to the right. Begun as a tent camp, it is now a destination resort operated by Canadian Pacific Hotels & Resorts. Along the road to the lodge, the road to Lakes Edith and Annette exits to the left. These spring-fed lakes are a popular day-use area for Canadian locals and visitors alike. Technically known as kettles, they were formed when huge blocks of glacial ice were buried by debris. As the ice melted, the overlying material collapsed into the depression, and the melting ice formed a small lake. In the summer, the lakes warm up to allow swimming—warm lakes are certainly a luxury in the Canadian Rockies.

As you approach Jasper Park Lodge, you skirt the shores of Mildred Lake, locally known as Laundry Lake because of its proximity to the lodge laundry department. Watch for a large water spout in the center of the lake. As the golf course tightens the taps on its irrigation system, the water backs up and sprays high into the air on Laundry Lake.

Continuing on Maligne Lake Road

As you pass the road to Jasper Park Lodge, tune your radio to AM 1490 (AM 1230 for French) for a Parks Canada radio broadcast on early adventurers in this area. For a pleasant picnic, take the side road to the Fifth and Sixth bridge picnic areas, or continue on to Maligne Canyon.

Hanging Valley Viewpoint

Rafting is a popular Canadian Rockies activity.

At kilometer six (mile four), an easy to miss sign indicates a viewpoint to the left. Take this exit for an excellent panorama of the Athabasca Valley and the town of Jasper. The Maligne Valley is a classic hanging valley. Large glaciers are able to carve large valleys, and conversely, smaller glaciers carve smaller valleys. Since the Maligne Valley glacier was merely a tributary of the much larger Athabasca Valley glacier, it left behind a shallower valley. When the ice melted, the difference became obvious as the smaller Maligne Valley was left stranded high above the much lower Athabasca Valley.

From this viewpoint, near the lip of the valley, you get a wonderful view of the vastness of the valley left behind by the Athabasca Valley glacier. Across the valley, Pyramid Mountain looms with its CNCP telecommunications tower on the summit. To the left of the Jasper town site, Whistlers Mountain and its ever-present tramway rule the skyline. In the valley bottom, Jasper lies peacefully.

Maligne Canyon

Shortly after leaving the Hanging Valley Viewpoint, turn left into the Maligne Canyon day-use area. Don’t miss the opportunity to see one of Jasper’s geological marvels. When glacial melt left the Maligne Valley stranded high above the Athabasca Valley, the Maligne River needed to find a way to drain its runoff into this lower valley. To accomplish this task, it began to rapidly erode this narrow canyon to reduce the difference in altitude between the two valleys. In some cases, the canyon is only a few meters wide, but as much as 50 m (160 ft.) deep.

The trail is well maintained, but gets steep in places, so take your time and enjoy the magic of the place. Because of its beauty, the canyon has an almost hypnotic effect on visitors, particularly photographers. Avoid the temptation to climb past barriers for the perfect image. Many photographers have died here doing just that. Enjoy the magic, but please stay behind the barriers. They are there for good reason.

Medicine Lake

Experience the popular lakes, rivers and streams of the Canadian Rockies.

Much of the drainage from the surrounding Canadian mountains leaves this valley through a hidden drainage network of underground caves. Medicine Lake dramatically illustrates the effectiveness of this underground drainage system, and gains its name from its curious habit of vanishing every autumn. It acts like a large bathtub with the plug pulled. If you add water fast enough, the tub will fill with water despite the water running down the drain.

In the case of Medicine Lake, upwards of 24,000 liters (4,000 gallons) of water go down the drain every second. During the runoff in summer, enough water is flowing into the lake from local streams to surpass the drainage. Before long, the lake bed begins to fill, and by late spring, Medicine Lake is in its full glory. By September, the runoff has dropped off, and the lake rapidly drains.

The cave drainage system beneath Medicine Lake resurfaces below Maligne Canyon, more than 17 kilometers (11 mi) downstream. This qualifies it as the longest underground drainage system in Canada. On two different occasions, attempts were made to plug the drain, once using old mattresses, the other using magazines—neither had any effect.

Medicine Lake also provides an excellent opportunity to catch your dinner. Its quiet waters teem with eastern brook trout. These fish were originally stocked in 1927, and since then have thrived. Prior to this, there were no fish in the lake—after all, how would they have gotten there? With its underground drainage system, Medicine Lake has no above ground outlet to allow fish to migrate upstream. It is formed strictly from glacial runoff.

At kilometer 35 (mile 22), the road passes the takeout point for whitewater rafters and kayakers. Keep your eyes open for some of these icy Canadian adventurers. The frigid waters of the Maligne River rarely surpass a few degrees above freezing, but despite its chilly nature, the stretch between Maligne Lake and this pullout represents one of Alberta’s most popular rafting destinations.

Rose Marie’s Rock

At kilometer 41 (mile 25), the road crosses a bridge over the Maligne River. Looking upstream, a large rock is visible in the middle of the river. This rock was showcased during filming of the 1953 classic Rose Marie, starring Howard Keel and Ann Blyth. No, Nelson Eddy didn’t sing to Jeanette Macdonald here, despite the sign in the Maligne Lake Restaurant! It was the remake of this classic movie that was actually filmed here.

Maligne Lake

Welcome to one of the most picturesque spots in the Canadian Rockies. Nestled between Leah Peak, Samson Peak and Mount Paul on the left, and Mounts Charlton, Unwin, Mary Vaux and Llysfran Peak to the right, it offers unlimited photographic potential. The lake was created when a landslide off the surrounding Opal Hills released almost 500-million-m³ (almost 700 million-yd³) of material into the lower valley. This natural dam caused the water to backup, forming the present lake. Like Medicine Lake, fish stocking in the early part of the century has created a fisherman’s paradise. Don’t forget to pick up your National Park fishing license before casting in your reel.

History

In 1875, railroad surveyor Henry MacLeod recorded the first non-native exploration of this valley. Looking for a route for Canada’s planned transcontinental railway, he found the valley to be blocked at its eastern end. Perhaps the best reflection of his expedition can be found in his dubbing the lake at the valley’s eastern end “Sore Foot Lake” (now Maligne Lake).

The lake remained quiet until 1908 when a Quaker from Pennsylvania, Mary Schäffer, hired local guide Billy Warren to take her to Chaba Imne (Stoney for Beaver Lake). Along with her was long-time friend Mary Adams. The party had explored Jasper the year prior, but had not been able to reach the lake before snowfall. Mary wrote in her journal:

“Indians, of course, had been there, but, unless a prospector or timber-cruiser had come in by way of the Athabasca River, we had reason to feel we might be the first white people to have visited it.”

As you drive this winding road, keep your eyes open for wildlife. Many a grizzly has been seen wandering its isolated hillsides and lakeshores. There is also the potential to spot a black bear, elk, moose, mule and white-tail deer, bighorn sheep and mountain goat. A camera and film are essential, but please stay in your vehicles when you see animals and please keep a safe distance between your vehicle and the wildlife.

Crossing the Athabasca River over the H.J. Moberly Bridge, you pay tribute to one of Jasper’s earliest pioneer families. Henry Moberly worked as a factor for the Hudson’s Bay Company, settling in the Jasper area in 1858. He lived until 1931, and this bridge, built in 1940, is dedicated to his memory.

Boat tours along the lake are a must for visitors to the Jasper area. Culminating with a visit to world famous “Spirit Island”, they offer endless views of the surrounding Canadian ranges, and provide the most civilized way to see the further reaches of this magnificent lake.

For further information on guided tours in the Canadian Rockies, fill out the blue form on the right side of this page.

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Exploring the Icefields Parkway

Don't miss the Icefields Parkway in the Canadian Rockies.

By Michele Kadison
Staff Writer
Rockies.com

JASPER, Alberta (Rockies.com) – This is one of the world’s most spectacular Canadian Rockies highways. Unsurpassed mountain scenery paralleling the Great Divide, including the Columbia Icefields, Bow and Crowfoot Glaciers, Athabasca Falls and Peyto Lake, await you on this scenic  drive. Grizzly and black bear, moose, caribou and other large wildlife abound here on the outskirts of Jasper National Park.

Activities: The activities are endless as you are in one of Alberta’s most popular Canadian destinations. Sightseeing, photography, wildlife watching, walking, hiking, fishing, picnicking and ice tours await you around every bend in the Icefields Parkway.

Location: North-south highway route between Lake Louise and Jasper. Fifty minutes west of Banff, two and a half hours west of Calgary, three and a half hours west of Edmonton.

Distance: 230 km (143 miles); one way: 5 hours; return trip: Full day.

Notes: The Icefields Parkway is open all year, but the few buildings (2) and services (gas station, Snocoach tour and visitor centre) along its entire length are closed from Oct – May. Fill-up with gas prior to leaving during those months. Also see our winter driving tips if you plan on driving this during the cold seasons in the Canadian Rockies.

Warning: Do not attempt to walk on the Canadian glacier by yourself. Hidden cliffs and holes covered by a stiff but thin layer of snow are very common. There have been several deaths from people falling through one of these thin layers of snow and either dying from the fall or freezing to death.

Always be safe and take a guided tour

Lake Louise to Bow Summit – The first 40 kilometres of the Icefields Parkway climbs steadily north through a Canadian sub-alpine forest and tops out in alpine meadows at Bow Summit, the highest point on the Parkway. Highlights of this section include Crowfoot Glacier, Bow Lake and the world famous Peyto Lake.

Beautiful Lake Louise is a Jasper must-see destination.

Bow Summit to Saskatchewan Crossing – The next 37 kilometres of the Parkway drops from Bow Summit down into a Canadian sub-alpine forest alongside the Mistaya River and then drops further into the mountain valley bottom of the Saskatchewan River. Highlights include Mistaya Canyon, Waterfowl Lake, the Saskatchewan River valley and the opportunity to see moose and black bear.

Saskatchewan Crossing to the Columbia Icefields – From the Crossing, the Icefields Parkway follows the Saskatchewan River and then begins a steep climb towards the ice fields. This 50 kilometre section is renowned worldwide for its spectacular Canadian scenery, including Mt. Athabasca, Columbia Glacier and the Columbia Icefields.

Columbia Icefields to Jasper – Mountain goats, bighorn sheep and elk are common along the final 103 kilometres of the Parkway. The road climbs Tangle Ridge, then drops down into Canadian mountain forest and follows the Sunwapta and Athabasca Rivers into the town of Jasper. Highlights include Sunwapta Falls, Athabasca Falls, the Kerkeslin Goat Lick and the opportunity to spot grizzly bears and mountain caribou, two of the most popular members of the Canadian wildlife family.

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A peaceful Old Highway trip in Jasper National Park

Gorgeous wildflowers contrast against dramatic mountain back drops in Jasper National Park.

By Michele Kadison

Staff Writer

Rockies.com

JASPER, Alberta (Rockies.com) – If you would like to avoid major highways in Canada’s Jasper National Park and go for the peaceful meander of a Canadian Rockies back road, then Highway 93A, or “the old highway,” is for you. Part of the original Banff/Jasper Highway, it now sees much less traffic.

The views on Jasper’s 93A open up almost immediately. The road climbs above the surrounding valley, providing perfect panoramas of the town of Jasper. The work of the Canadian Rockies glaciers is visible in the broad sculpting of the Athabasca valley. Across the valley, the Maligne Range forms a formidable barrier.

Hidden behind their rugged facade is Maligne Canyon and Maligne Lake. An optional side trip at kilometre 2.4 (1.5 mi) takes you towards Marmot Basin Ski Area. Portal Creek trailhead, at the 7 kilometre (4 mi) mark along this side trip, is one of two main trailheads for the expansive Tonquin Valley. Hidden 20 kilometres (12 mi) along the creek and over Maccarib Pass, it is one of Jasper’s most popular backcountry destinations—winter and summer.

The ski hill’s 48 runs offer a vertical rise of 701 m/2,300 ft. From snowmobile access in the 1950s, the hill expanded with a T-Bar in the 1960s and has continued to grow over the years. Highway 93A passes the junction with Cavell Road at kilometre 5.2 (3.2 mi). Kilometre 8.2 (mile 4.3) solves the mystery of why the town often seems alive with members of the British military. This British Army Camp provides a base for extensive mountain training. The soldiers descend into town on regular occasions to take over the laundromat—not to mention several local watering holes.

Wabasso Campground, at kilometre 9.2 (5.7 mi), offers a quiet alternative to Jasper’s busy urban campgrounds. The Whirlpool and Athabasca Rivers meet at the “Meeting of the Waters” at kilometre 14/8.4 miles. Although quiet today, this site formed a major junction for countless fur trade expeditions. Here they would leave the Athabasca River and follow the Whirlpool River upstream towards Athabasca Pass.

First discovered in 1811 by David Thompson, one of Canada’s premier fur traders, explorers and map makers, it became the standard route of travel west for many years. Normally at the junction of Athabasca Pass, fur brigades from the east met other traders from Columbia. Goods were exchanged, and the traders would turn around and retrace their steps in the opposite direction.

With the Oregon Treaty in 1846, the 49th parallel was set as the international boundary, and the mouth of the Columbia became American territory. Soon, the Athabasca Pass route was all but abandoned as travelers began to traverse Yellowhead Pass. Another short back road at kilometre 15.2 (mile 9.4) follows the Whirlpool River for 6.9 km (4.3 mi), ending within a kilometre of Moab Lake.

Catch stunning sunsets on a Canadian Rockies roadtrip.

For the more adventurous traveler seeking a Canadian Rockies thrill, the road also forms the trailhead for the 43 km/27 mi trek to Athabasca Pass. Leach Lake at kilometre 19.6/12.2 mi.(don’t worry—it’s not named after those slimy blood suckers—leeches), provides a lovely spot for a relaxing picnic. This lake is most likely a glacial kettle formed from large chunks of ice buried by retreating glaciers. As the ice melted, the material above the former ice block collapsed into the void. The water moved to the surface, creating a tiny pond. Many of the smaller lakes in the Canadian Rockies were formed in this way.

Another former fire road at kilometre 23/14.3 mi, climbs 5.5 km (3.5 mi.) up the lower slopes of Mount Fryatt. From the trailhead at road’s end, a short, steep trail climbs to the former site of the Geraldine Fire Lookout. From this lofty vantage point, the valley is spread beneath you. A second trail climbs higher up the slopes of Mount Fryatt towards a narrow glacial valley containing the Geraldine lakes. Shortly beyond the Geraldine Fire road, Highway 93A meets the main portion of Highway 93 at Athabasca Falls.

Don’t miss these dramatic falls which cut a gorge through thick layers of quartz sandstone. The true power of water is experienced as the river plummets amidst a thunderous roar. For your own safety, please avoid climbing over the many retaining walls. The rocks are constantly bathed in water vapor which supports a growth of slippery algae. One misplaced step can make you a permanent part of the Canadian mountain landscape.

From the junction with Highway 93 at kilometre 24.1 (mile 15), you can continue south towards the Columbia Icefields or return north to Jasper.

Highlights: Views of the Athabasca Valley, Portal Creek Trailhead, Marmot Basin Ski Area Road, Cavell Road, Wabasso Campground, Whirlpool River, Athabasca Falls.

Activities: Sightseeing, photography, walking, hiking.

Location: A few kilometres south of Jasper.

Time: Minimum of one half-hour.

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Exploring this area of Jasper National Park

By Kay Barbaro

Staff Writer

Rockies.com

Get up close and personal with Mount Edith Cavell in Jasper National Park.

JASPER, Alberta (Rockies. com) – Mount Edith Cavell is one of the most historically interesting areas of Jasper National Park and the Canadian Rockies. It also offers a great scenic drive and some excellent hiking and sight-seeing opportunities.

Traveling south from Jasper, follow Highway 93A for 5.2 km (3.2 mi). Turn right onto Cavell Road shortly after crossing the Astoria River. The narrow, winding nature of this road precludes motor coaches, trailers and large motor homes. Trailers can be left at the parking lot at the start of Cavell Road.

The switchbacks begin immediately, and rapidly climb out of the valley bottom. During the Canadian winter months, when this road is closed to traffic, it becomes a popular cross-country ski trail. Skiers often stay overnight at the Mount Edith Cavell Hostel before venturing out into the backcountry of the Tonquin Valley. The Astoria River takes its name from American fur trader John Jacob Aster.

Two kilometres beyond the Hostel, at kilometre 15 (mile 9), the road ends at the Mount Edith Cavell Parking lot.

From here, two short interpretive trails show the two sides of life in the alpine. One, the Path of the Glacier Trail, takes you through the debris left behind by the retreat of local Alberta glaciers. In its path, it has left mounds of glacial debris (called moraines), rocks scoured and scraped by the passing ice and two remnant glaciers, the Angel and Cavell Glaciers. The trail ends at a tiny melt water pond littered with icebergs, and a fine view of both glaciers. The Cavell Meadows Trail takes you above the glacial debris to a sub-alpine meadow. This is the trail for flower lovers as it explodes into life each summer in July.

Edith Louise Cavell (1865-1915) was a British nurse during World War I. In 1907, she went to Brussels as a nurse, but by 1914 was put in charge of a unit whose main purpose was to help soldiers trapped behind enemy lines rejoin their units. To the German army, this was treason, and she was executed by firing squad. Today she is remembered as a heroine, and to some, a martyr. In 1916, the snow-capped face of this 3,363 m. (11,033 ft.) peak was renamed in her honor.

Highlights: Astoria River, Access to Tonquin Valley, Path of the Glacier Trail, Angel and Cavell Glaciers, Cavell Meadows Trail.

Activities: Sightseeing, photography, walking, hiking.

Location: 5.2 km (3.2 mi) south of Jasper.

Time: Minimum of one half-hour at the meadows.

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